Almost every family in America has a story about how they came to this country. Mine involves Max and Sophie Staub, who emigrated from Berlin, settled in the Yorkville section of Manhattan and, I’m told, opened a small restaurant. It all kind of makes sense, because at the root of so many immigrant stories, there’s food: a reminder of the past, a passage to the future. I’m always keenly aware of that when we celebrate Thanksgiving. In this issue, we honor America’s heritage, as well as provide amazing holiday recipes and holiday wines to go with them.
I’m particularly fascinated by the Asian influences on American food. I’ve turned this interest (well, quasi-obsession) into an article in this issue about my self-guided study of Japanese cuisine. Then, to collect Americanized ethnic recipes for a different story, I solicited ideas using my Twitter account (@fwscout). I got so many good suggestions from Boston chef Joanne Chang that I asked her if we could print them. Her easy, spicy peanut-noodle recipe is so outstanding that a bunch of editors took home bootleg copies of it before the issue went to press.
We also fell hard for Momofuku impresario David Chang’s Asian-ish recipes for Thanksgiving leftovers (that’s Dave with me in the photo to the right). While I don’t usually go on our photo shoots, I went to that one to see what Dave would come up with. It was the year’s best lunch.
For the big holiday feast itself, we’ve expanded our most popular column, Tasting & Testing. Our fabulous Test Kitchen cooks perfected one basic recipe for eight key parts of the meal, then created two delicious variations for each. Add to that the terrific, French-accented Thanksgiving recipes from Chicago chef Shawn McClain, and you’ll have more than enough ways to celebrate the holiday—no matter when or how your family came to this country.
Where I’m Coming From
My Recent Breakfast Expeditions:
Red Devon Market Bar & Restaurant
The perfect farm-to-table breakfast, with local eggs, potatoes, sausage and more in a rustic store setting.
New York City
It’s almost impossible to choose from among the insane number of dishes, but I settled on the Saxelby: eggs with cheese, named for the cheesemonger next door.
Bedford Post Inn
At Richard Gere’s incredible restaurant and inn, an on-site bakery sells morning pastries like the perfect corn muffin.
Follow me on Twitter@fwscout