Almost every family in America has a story about how they came to this country. Mine involves Max and Sophie Staub, who emigrated from Berlin, settled in the Yorkville section of Manhattan and, I’m told, opened a small restaurant. It all kind of makes sense, because at the root of so many immigrant stories, there’s food: a reminder of the past, a passage to the future. I’m always keenly aware of that when we celebrate Thanksgiving. In this issue, we honor America’s heritage, as well as provide amazing holiday recipes and holiday wines to go with them.
I’m particularly fascinated by the Asian influences on American food. I’ve turned this interest (well, quasi-obsession) into an article in this issue about my self-guided study of Japanese cuisine. Then, to collect Americanized ethnic recipes for a different story, I solicited ideas using my Twitter account (@fwscout). I got so many good suggestions from Boston chef Joanne Chang that I asked her if we could print them. Her easy, spicy peanut-noodle recipe is so outstanding that a bunch of editors took home bootleg copies of it before the issue went to press.
We also fell hard for Momofuku impresario David Chang’s Asian-ish recipes for Thanksgiving leftovers (that’s Dave with me in the photo to the right). While I don’t usually go on our photo shoots, I went to that one to see what Dave would come up with. It was the year’s best lunch.