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Editor’s Letter February 2013

We are living in a 24-hour world—working, texting and Instagramming day and night. The happy corollary is that we’re eating great food around the clock, too. We highlight 50 absolutely delicious dishes in this February issue.

Our story “Capital Improvement” collects recipes from Washington, DC’s incredible new breakfast, lunch, dinner, after-hours and snack spots. If you had told me when I was a Senate intern during college that Washington would one day be a center of restaurant cool, I’d have choked on my greasy cafeteria grilled cheese sandwich. But chefs like ramen expert Erik Bruner-Yang, who will be launching the ambitious Maketto this spring, are making the DC food scene a whole lot more exciting than Beltway politics.

Over the last few years, we’ve been covering professional bakers and chefs all around the country who are reinventing breakfast. Now, it’s time for home cooks to catch up. Our story “Bread and Breakfast” takes a look at the new world of choices, from Nordic rye loaves to Persian flatbreads, and shares recipes for fabulous bready breakfasts. My favorites are the outrageous maple-bacon bread pudding and the brioche French toast with cranberry cream. And if you ever wanted to make your own bagels, you’ll find out how here.

As a recent convert to coffee—the perfect fuel for 24 hours of eating adventures—I learned a lot from champion barista Michael Phillips of Los Angeles’s Handsome Coffee Roasters. In “A Coffee-Geek Primer,” he explains the differences among various home-brewing methods and tells how to make a cup that’s right for you. Turns out I’m a paper-filter/Clever Dripper/dark-roast person. One cup and I’m ready to hit the restaurant circuit—anytime!

Where I’m Coming From: My Recent Chicago Expeditions


I’d love to have this place in my neighborhood for a crispy chicken-skin snack and maitake mushrooms with egg vinaigrette. 2853 N. Kedzie Ave.;

Slurping Turtle

Takashi Yagihashi’s casual ramen spot makes noodles the slow way, by hand. 116 W. Hubbard St.;


Dramatic plating and creative food from Thai Dang, like scallops sizzled on a shell. 564 W. Randolph St.;

Published February 2013


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