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Editor's Letter, August 2006

When was the exact moment it happened? I can't tell you. It was a gradual thing. But over time I've developed a hyper-awareness about everything I eat and drink. It's no longer as simple as asking: Will this taste good? A whole bunch of other questions rush to mind before the first bite: Is it organic? Local? Mass-produced? Bad for the planet? Bad for my health? This special How to Be an Eco-Epicurean issue highlights people, places and things making a difference, with recipes that are both delicious and healthy.

For "What Does Eating Well Really Mean?" we canvassed a range of thinkers for answers. Most of the food intelligentsia has committed itself to local and sustainable: Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore's Dilemma, tells us we have the choice to vote with our fork three times a day. Chef and author Anthony Bourdain offers a contrarian view: He believes that taste trumps everything else.

Both Pollan and Bourdain might applaud Kimbal Musk and Hugo Matheson, owners of The Kitchen restaurant in Boulder, Colorado. The duo uses sustainable ingredients in spectacular dishes like grilled sea bass with parsley-anchovy sauce and chopped salad with goat cheese—and they buy wind power, compost almost everything and donate used cooking oil for biodiesel fuel.

Whether you care about sustainable ingredients or not, you'll find many amazing recipes in this issue. I recommend you immediately turn to Chicago star chef Shawn McClain's fast, healthy dishes in Chef Recipes Made Easy or Celia Brooks Brown's vegetarian options in our Well-Being column, or Paula Wolfert's recipe for pistou—the Provençal take on pesto and the ultimate summer food. Or Susan Spungen's wonderful lightened recipes (especially her guacamole with tomatillos). We've never had so many ways to feel good about eating in one issue.

Dana Cowin

Where I'm Coming From

Notes from my recent expeditions.

A Voce
NEW YORK CITY
Had an uplifting, light Ligurian shellfish soup, with awesome shrimp meatballs in a pesto-spiked broth from chef Andrew Carmellini.
DETAILS 41 Madison Ave.; 212-545-8555.

Appellation Wine & Spirits
NEW YORK CITY
sPerfect place to shop for biodynamic wines like a citrusy 2004 Movia Gredic Tokay.
DETAILS 156 10th Ave.; 212-741-9474.

Room 4 Dessert
NEW YORK CITY
Hypercreative sweets worth a splurge (and worth pairing with wines) from chef Will Goldfarb.
DETAILS 17 Cleveland Pl.; 212-941-5405.

Email Me

danafoodandwine@aexp.com
I'd love to know how you define well-being and eating well.

Published August 2006
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