1992 Boutari Grande Reserve Naoussa Medium- to full-bodied, soft, subtle wine with a nose of rich, ripe red fruits. Made from 100 percent Xinomavro grapes and aged two years in the bottle, with much of the elegance of a Gran Reserva Rioja. The Boutari family has been producing Naoussa since 1879. ($16) 1995 Boutari Nemea A fairly light-bodied dry red, reminiscent of a young Côtes du Rhône. Made from the Agiorgitiko grape. ($9) Nonvintage Boutari Samos The classic dessert wine of Greece. Similar in style to a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. Full-bodied and rich with a nose of dried apricots. Sweet but not cloying. ($11) 1996 Boutari Santorini Fresh, crisp and fairly full-bodied dry white with a lush, exotic nose. Made from the Assyrtiko grape on the island of Santorini. ($11)