2004 Santa Maddalena Alto Adige ($15) A full-bodied and beautifully balanced wine with a long, penetrating finish. Made by an acclaimed Alto Adige cooperative, it was easily the best of my tasting.
2004 J. Hofstätter Alto Adige ($19) Although it's a bit closed and tight, it's still lovely, with bright fruit flavors and a lively acidity.
2004 Jermann Friuli ($28) The acidity is fairly high, but this is the rare Pinot Grigio, from one of Italy's best white-wine makers, that can improve with age.
2004 Kris Trentino ($13) This simple but wonderfully refreshing wine is a great aperitif and a great buy.
2003 Bortoluzzi Friuli ($16) Made by acclaimed enologist Giovanni Bortoluzzi, this Friulian wine is very pure, clean and bright with an impressive finish.
2003 Peter Zemmer Alto Adige ($10) Marked by delicate floral aromas, this pretty Pinot Grigio has plenty of racy acidity and grip.
2004 Bollini Trentino ($12) Clean and crisp, with a decidedly mineral edge and a floral aroma, Bollini is produced by the noted wine importer Neil Empson.
2003 Rocca Bernarda Friuli ($18) Marked by attractive pear and apricot notes, this is a surprisingly substantial, ageworthy wine.
2004 Ca' Montini L'Aristocratico Trentino ($15) A bit weightier than most Pinot Grigios, this wine comes from a well-known Amarone producer.
2004 Palmina Alisos Vineyard, Santa Barbara County ($20) Although the Alisos Vineyard is famed for Sangiovese, it's also the source of delicious Pinot Grigios like this one.
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