Beirut is starting to feel like its old self. With its residents eager to resume the long, leisurely dinners they missed during the civil war and its messy aftermath, the city's restaurants are filling up again. On a recent trip, I made some new discoveries.
Abdel Wahab Restaurant The Lebanese specialties here—such as the fatte, made with grilled eggplant and layers of garlic-spiked yogurt—are some of the city's most outstanding (56 Abdel Wahab El Inglizi St.; 011-961-1-200-550).
Hotel Albergo Opened in 1998, this Relais & Châteaux hotel in a restored 1930s house in the Achrafieh district is Beirut's chicest—although the Four Seasons, which is rumored to be opening a property in the city in the near future, will likely give it some competition (doubles from $215; 137 Abdel Wahab El Inglizi St.; albergobeirut.com).