Dispatch From a Trusted Correspondent on the Road: St. Louis
Subject: St. Louis, Missouri
Brewington Kentucky native A.J. Brewington sells everything from Eames rockers ($425) to mounted hartebeest horns ($325). Her specialty, though, is vintage glassware, like a set of six delicate aquavit glasses ($160) from Portuguese producer Weil, made in the 1940s (4731-4733 McPherson Ave.; 314-361-5373).
Chase Park Plaza Built in 1922, this landmark hotel recently completed a four-year, $100 million renovation that includes a refurbishment of the in-house movie theater serving locally brewed Schlafly beer. The sprawling, arcaded pool terrace—built in time for the 1956 Miss America contest—is now a setting for late-night drinks (212-232 N. Kingshighway Blvd.; 877-587-2427).
Kaldi's Coffee House Kaldi's, the city's best-known coffee roaster, opened their original, charmingly rumpled café 11 years ago (a fourth is now in the works). The intense French roast is the best match for their outrageously rich "gooey butter cake" (700 De Mun Ave.; 314-727-9955).
Pin-Up Bowl Considerably more popular than the city's International Bowling Museum & Hall of Fame (which is still worth a trip), this martini lounge has eight lanes and a reputation for stiff drinks. The bartenders specialize in forgotten classics like the Derby, made with bourbon, Benedictine and Angostura bitters (6191 Delmar Blvd.; 314-727-5555).
Savor The menu at this eight-month-old mortuary-turned-restaurant ranges from tender, spicy kung pao sweetbreads to foie grasï¿½stuffed Medjool dates wrapped in bacon with piquant pepper sauce. Chef Kirk Warner used to run the kitchen at local favorite King Louie's, which helps explain his new restaurant's instant popularity (4356 Lindell Blvd.; 314-531-0220).