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Aubert wines are sold via mailing list (see aubertwines.com) and to select restaurants throughout the country.

2004 Aubert Lauren Vineyard ($70) Mark Aubert dotes on his daughter, and her namesake wine is easily the softest, most subtly contoured of the Aubert Chardonnays.

2004 Aubert Quarry Vineyard ($65) Made from grapes grown on a steep hillside vineyard that Aubert planted over 10 years ago for Peter Michael Winery, this is a concentrated wine with notes of lemon, orange peel and lime.

2004 Aubert Reuling Vineyard ($65) Perhaps the most restrained and the most Burgundian of all Aubert Chardonnays, this is a wine that will repay a few years' cellaring time.

2004 Aubert Ritchie Vineyard ($65) Made from 35-year old vines, this intense, electric wine shows notes of lemon and almond.