Gina DePalma, the pastry chef at Babbo in New York City, makes incredible cannoli: delicate, crisp pastries subtly flavored with orange and filled with silky, coffee-spiked mascarpone. They're easy to make, too, because DePalma uses crunchy tuile cookies rather than classic deep-fried shells. And if you don't want to buy a mold to form the cookies into little tubes, you can shape the soft tuiles over the neck of a wine bottle instead.

Published March 2004