My F&W
quick save (...)

Chris Cosentino: Nose-to-Tail Eating

Nose-to-tail eating is a huge restaurant trend. Here's a taste for the timid, courtesy of chef Chris Cosentino.

"We never serve obvious cuts of meat, ever," says Chris Cosentino, who famously champions offal at his San Francisco restaurant, Incanto. Cosentino has been cooking kidneys, tripe and heart since he started at Incanto eight years ago. While his style of nose-to-tail eating feels very modern, he would argue that he's simply reviving a thrifty European way of cooking, in which no part of the animal is left uneaten. Instead of making dishes like grilled beef tenderloin (Cosentino's least favorite piece of meat: "It's flavorless and textureless"), he offers things like roasted lamb neck. For the recipes here, F&W reimagines some of Cosentino's most inaccessible—and tastiest—dishes.


Beef Brasato with Pappardelle and Mint

Beef Brasato with Pappardelle and Mint
© Eric Wolfinger/Tina Rupp

Chef Way At Incanto, chef Chris Cosentino braises beef shank and oxtail in red wine to make a brasato he serves with house-made mint pappardelle.

Easy Way Instead of oxtail, the dish uses just beef shank. Fresh pappardelle from a store replaces the house-made kind.


Lemon-and-Fennel-Roasted Lamb with Polenta

Lemon-and-Fennel-Roasted Lamb with Polenta
© Eric Wolfinger/Tina Rupp

Chef Way Cosentino serves roasted lamb necks with polenta cooked in a combination of sheep-milk whey and whole milk.

Easy Way Marinated boneless leg of lamb is tender and incredibly delicious alongside creamy polenta with mascarpone.


Spaghetti with Anchovy Carbonara

Spaghetti with Anchovy Carbonara
© Eric Wolfinger/Tina Rupp

Chef Way Cosentino adds briny flavor to his pasta with cured tuna heart. He shaves it on right before serving.

Easy Way This recipe calls for anchovies, rather than the tuna heart Cosentino uses. Egg yolks form a silky sauce.

More Satisfying Dishes:

Published April 2011
You Might Also Like

Comments

Add A Comment

    Add a Comment

    See our terms
    You must be logged in to comment. or
    advertisement
    The Dish
    Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
    The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
    F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.
    American Express Publishing ("AEP") may use your email address to send you account updates and offers that may interest you. To learn more about the ways we may use your email address and about your privacy choices, read the AEP Privacy Statement.
    How we use your email address
    advertisement
    Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

    Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.