Chris Cosentino: Nose-to-Tail Eating
"We never serve obvious cuts of meat, ever," says Chris Cosentino, who famously champions offal at his San Francisco restaurant, Incanto. Cosentino has been cooking kidneys, tripe and heart since he started at Incanto eight years ago. While his style of nose-to-tail eating feels very modern, he would argue that he's simply reviving a thrifty European way of cooking, in which no part of the animal is left uneaten. Instead of making dishes like grilled beef tenderloin (Cosentino's least favorite piece of meat: "It's flavorless and textureless"), he offers things like roasted lamb neck. For the recipes here, F&W reimagines some of Cosentino's most inaccessibleand tastiestdishes.
Chef Way At Incanto, chef Chris Cosentino braises beef shank and oxtail in red wine to make a brasato he serves with house-made mint pappardelle.
Easy Way Instead of oxtail, the dish uses just beef shank. Fresh pappardelle from a store replaces the house-made kind.
Chef Way Cosentino serves roasted lamb necks with polenta cooked in a combination of sheep-milk whey and whole milk.
Easy Way Marinated boneless leg of lamb is tender and incredibly delicious alongside creamy polenta with mascarpone.
Chef Way Cosentino adds briny flavor to his pasta with cured tuna heart. He shaves it on right before serving.
Easy Way This recipe calls for anchovies, rather than the tuna heart Cosentino uses. Egg yolks form a silky sauce.