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Although Super-Tuscan is an outmoded term now that IGT Toscana has become an official designation, I'm having a hard time letting go--it's just so perfectly conceived, especially for the following five Tuscan wines, which all start with S and will always be super to me. (Prices quoted by Zachys Wine & Liquour, Scarsdale, New York.)

SOLENGO, by Argiano. Made from Cabernet, Sangiovese and Merlot with a splash of Syrah, it's so rich, so concentrated and so powerful that some people are calling this "the new Tignanello," after one of the first great Super-Tuscans. ($185)

SIEPI, by Castello di Fonterutoli, an estate whose Chiantis are getting better and better. Lately they've been among the best in Tuscany. A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, the Siepi is another rich, full-bodied, opulent wine. ($75)

SAFFREDI, by Le Pupille, run by the talented winemaker Elisabetta Geppetti. Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with a bit of Merlot and Alicante (Grenache) but no Sangiovese, this wine is very full bodied, even dense, but it's surprisingly elegant. ($105)

SAMMARCO, by Castello dei Rampolla, one of Tuscany's most consistent producers. It's predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance of the blend around 15 percent Sangiovese. A big, powerful and rather fearsomely tannic wine. ($80)

SASSICAIA, by Tenuta San Guido. The original Super-Tuscan and the most famous S of all, this estimable Cabernet had its ups and downs in the Eighties, but vintages in the Nineties have been uniformly granted tre bicchieri (three glasses), the top honor, by Gambero Rosso, the Italian wine magazine. ($175)