The grilled shrimp is full of bright, fresh flavors, with a hit of lemon from the salsa; the black bass is savory from the soy and the celery root. An elegant but fruity California Chardonnay with restrained oak nuances could hold its own against the tartness of the first course but wrap its richness around the bass. Go for such crisp bottlings as the 1996 Trefethen or the 1996 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.