Provence Black Book
Where To Stay
Lydie Marshall's Château Féodal—the site of the cooking school, A la Bonne Cocotte en Provence. $1,800 per person for five days, including cooking classes, excursions, all meals and lodging at the château (Nyons; 33-475-26-45-31; ciboulette@juno.com).
Excursions
Nyons market day every Thursday. Vaison-la-Romaine market day every Tuesday. Dieulefit pottery market every Monday. La Poterie du Mont-Rachas A shop that sells local painted pottery (Le Poët-Laval; 33-475-46-46-84). Ferme le Château A superlative producer of goat cheese (St-Ferréol-Trente-Pas; 33-475-27-74-25).
Restaurants
Le Petit Caveau Robuchon-trained Christian Cormont offers a small, creative menu using local ingredients. His wife, Muriel, an oenologist, will recommend wines by the glass—unusual for France (9 rue Victor-Hugo, Nyons; 33-475-26-20-21).
La Gloriette A bakery-cum-restaurant in the countryside serving simple food from a wood-fired oven; with guest rooms (Mérindol-les-Oliviers; 33-475-28-71-08).
La Table de Nicole Nicole Vernerey serves authentic regional food at its best in a setting worthy of Marcel Pagnol; with guest rooms (Valaurie; 33-475-98-52-03).
Travel Tips
Take the TGV train from Paris to Avignon, then rent a car.