2002 Huet Le Mont Sec Vouvray ($35) Huet may be one of the great undersung wineries of the Loire Valley, of France, possibly of the world. This gorgeous white (made from the Chenin Blanc grape) is well balanced, at once unctuously rich and beautifully dry, with a very long, very clean, very mineral finish.

1998 Domaine Le Clos du Caillou Côtes-du-Rhône ($30) This well-regarded producer makes Côtes-du-Rhônes of a complexity and depth that could easily rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape (it's amazing quality for the price). This predominantly Grenache blend is rich and full-bodied, with notes of earth, spice and black fruit.

2003 Roessler Cellars Red Label Pinot Noir ($26) This relatively new Sonoma-based single vineyard Pinot Noir specialist (under the direction of Wells Guthrie), is turning out some compulsively drinkable Pinot Noirs. This juicy bottling, with soft tannins, firm acidity and notes of sweet-cherry fruit, is a perfect case in point.