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2005 Raphael Cabernet Franc ($18) Although not a complex wine, this unoaked, fairly light red has lots of exuberant fruit and a refreshing acidity that makes it a great food wine.

2004 Lenz Gewürztraminer ($20) This Alsace-style white has been a mainstay of the Lenz portfolio for nearly 25 years, and winemaker Eric Fry has its dry, tangy profile down perfectly.

2006 Channing Daughters Tocai Friulano ($24) Christopher Tracy is making some memorable wines at this Hamptons outpost, but this nutty, minerally South-Fork- by-way-of-Friuli white impressed me the most.

2006 Paumanok Vineyards Chenin Blanc ($28) Made from some of the oldest vines on the North Fork, this bright, slightly effervescent white has a pleasingly clean, almost stony finish.

2001 The Grapes of Roth Merlot ($50) I did not taste a lot of great Long Island Merlots, but this one, made by Wölffer Estate's Roman Roth, stood out. It's rich and concentrated but not excessive—between a St-Émilion garagiste bottling and a Napa wine.