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Larmandier-Bernier Brut Tradition Champagne NV ($48) In addition to farming biodynamically, Sophie and Pierre Larmandier bottle this intense Champagne with a very low dosage (the sugar and wine solution added to Champagne just before its final bottling).

2004 Movia Sauvignon ($27) Ales Kristancic, whose family has owned the Movia estate in Slovenia since 1820, is known almost as much for his antic personality as for his unusual winemaking techniques—aging his whites, like this unusually aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, in oak casks for a minimum of one year.

2006 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Abraxas ($29) This Alsace-style blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Riesling, from Sinskey’s Sonoma Scintilla vineyard (the winery itself is in Napa), seems austere at first, then opens up to reveal minerally nectarine, pear and spice flavors.

2004 Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault ($68) Pierre Morey, winemaker for Burgundy’s famed Domaine Leflaive, also makes wines (primarily whites) at his own small, family-owned biodynamic estate. This earthy Meursault is one of his best.

2003 Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes Rouges ($36) Gérard Gauby makes powerful red wines in France’s up-and-coming Côtes du Roussillon region, including this old-vine blend of Grenache, Carignane, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

2004 Domaine Leroy Bourgogne Rouge ($112) Lalou Bize-Leroy is legendary for her extraordinary grand cru Burgundies. This complexly aromatic red from 2004, a vintage she declassified in part because of hailstorms, uses grapes from her grand cru vineyards. —Ray Isle