Big City Value Eats: Where To Go Next in Paris
Coco & Co
Former fashion stylist Céline Parrenin and pal Franklin Reinhard, an exmusic publicist, recently created this cozy two- story shrine to eggs in St.-Germain-des-Prés. There are 30-plus choices, none more than $27, including quiches, omelets and eggs au plat (fried), en cocotte (baked) and scrambled, served with ingredients like wild mushrooms, salmon, asparagus tips, basil and eggplant. 11 rue Bernard-Palissy, 6th Arr.; 011-33-1-454-40252.
At this rustic Alsatian wine bar, energetic Claude Steger is cook, waiter and walking wine list—he has more than 100 labels memorized. If you think the Muscat he pours with the potato salad and crunchy-creamy sliced pig's ears is too sweet, he will produce a minerally Riesling instead. Steger turns out a magnificent tarte flambé (he flavors the thin-crusted onion-and-bacon pizza with juniper berries), as well as four kinds of choucroute, including garnie saucisses, with crisp sauerkraut and three types of sausage ($15). 10 rue Condorcet, 9th Arr.; 011-33-1-452-64431.
Paris pastry wizard Pierre Hermé is a fan of Philippe and Pénélope Tredgeu's irresistible Béarnais bistro and its lace curtains, banquettes of red moleskin and seasonal blackboard menu. The sensational three-course, $44 dinner offers modern bistro dishes like almond-crusted sole sautéed in butter (you can hear the sizzling from the kitchen), tender braised veal breast stuffed with Swiss chard and rice, and for dessert, Earl Greyinfused custard. More extravagant entrées like game are available for a few extra euros. 83 rue Laugier, 17th Arr.; 011-33-1-405-49724.
Taverne Henri IV
Wine bars are fantastic places to eat and drink well without paying a lot, and Philippe Virmoux's old-time tavern, across from the Henri IV statue on the Pont Neuf, is no exception. Lawyers from the Palais de Justice (where Papillon was sentenced to life in prison) crowd the tables, banquettes and bar for sturdy bistro dishes like charcuterie platters and stuffed Savoy cabbage in red wine sauce, and for the Beaujolais, Loire and Alsace wines. 13 place du Pont-Neuf, 1st Arr.; 011-33-1-435-42790.
This no-reservations spot from chef Christian Constant offers a $22 cocotte du jour, such as lomo ham with cauliflower, served in the restaurant's namesake mini cast-iron pots. 135 rue St. Dominique, 7th Arr.; 011-33-1-455-01031.