Best Paris Wine Bars: Racines

Entrepreneurs are reinventing the Paris wine bar with exciting boutique bottles and amazing food, as in the great recipes here.

Chicken with White Wine and Crème Fraîche

Apple Tart with Almond Cream

Baked Pastry Shell

At Paris’s hottest wine bar, owner Pierre Jancou waits tables, slices charcuterie and pours the wine. The natural-wine evangelist offers bottlings from 15 French producers, including the sherrylike vin de voile from the Arbois in Jura. Jancou opened Racines in a 19th-century shopping arcade after selling his beloved La Crémerie in 2007 (“Saint-Germain was too bourgeois for me,” says the tattooed bistrotier). Behind his zinc-topped oak bar, he makes homespun dishes with Ewen Lemoigne using extraordinary ingredients like heritage chicken in a crème fraîche sauce.