In the interests of expanding the frontiers of culinary understanding (and because I was hungry), I holed up in my kitchen one evening and subjected a range of Pinot Noirs to a few theoretically Pinot-friendly dishes—a grilled salmon fillet, a chicken breast sautéed with tarragon and white vermouth, a porcini risotto and (why not?) an aged New York strip steak, seared rare. I paired wines in three styles: tart and fruity, elegant and balanced, and rich and powerful.

2005 Anne Amie Vineyards Cuvée A ($20)

This fruity Oregon Pinot complemented the chicken but, contrary to expectation, made the salmon taste fishy.

2003 Calera Mt. Harlan Cuvée ($28)

This gorgeous, cool-climate Pinot from California’s Central Coast was the most versatile; ideal with everything but the steak.

2005 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard ($60)

Lusciously ripe, this Pinot-in-Zinfandel’s-clothing from Napa-Carneros steamrollered everything except the steak.