Beef Fillet & Syrah

A succulent pancetta-wrapped roast with porcini puree finds its equal in a luscious California Syrah full of fruit.

Perfect Wine Match

Syrah, that ancient grape of France's Rhône Valley (elsewhere it's also known as Shiraz), has experienced a new wave of popularity thanks to the rich, fruity, food-friendly versions now made everywhere from Australia to the Andes. One particularly vibrant example is the 1999 Lockwood ($13) from California's Monterey County. Bursting with lots of luscious, sweet fruit and notes of earth and spice, this wine is a perfect match for the earthy-smoky flavors of the porcini mushrooms and the pancetta-wrapped tenderloin. The gorgeous, intense 2001 Bodegas Salentein Shiraz ($18), from Argentina, is a close second. Made from low-yielding, mountain-grown fruit, it shows the sure touch of superstar Bordeaux wine consultant Michel Rolland.

PUBLISHED February 2003