Basque Wines "Sturdy wines to go with sturdy food" is how chef Gerald Hirigoyen describes Basque wines. Unfortunately, there's not much to go around. The 100-hectare Irouléguy is the only appellation; the grapes, mostly Tannat with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, grow at one of the highest elevations of any European vineyard. Some Irouléguy reds and rosés available in this country: Domaine Arretxea from Kermit Lynch of Berkeley, California (510-524-1524); Domaine de Mignaberry through Chrissa Imports of South San Francisco (650-877-8460); Domaine Brana and Domaine Ilarria through Wine Traditions of Falls Church, Virginia (703-534-3430). Wine Traditions also imports Domaine Brana's white Irouléguy.

Similar Wines Béarn, a small Pyrenees appellation north of the Basque country, produces Jurançon, a dry, acidic white. Hirigoyen also recommends Bordeaux: a steely Graves and a robust red Madiran.

--J.N.