While parents calculate the age of their babies in weeks, farmers measure their babies--the leafy-green variety--in inches. Lee Jones at the Chef's Garden, a family farm in Huron, Ohio, that sells exclusively to restaurants, defines the stages of his greens this way: MICRO, 1 to 1 1/4 inches; COTYLEDON, 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 inches; PETITE, 1 3/4 to 2 inches; ULTRA, 2 to 3 inches; BABY, 3 to 4 inches; YOUNG, 4 inches and up.
In addition to fruit and vegetable markets and farmers' markets, baby greens are available by mail order from Indian Rock Produce (800-882-0512).
How chefs treat their babies
JOSIAH CITRIN of Mélisse in Santa Monica, California, likes to put baby greens and mature ones on the same plate. His steak comes with wilted baby chard and roasted mature chard in a chive, shallot and bone-marrow sauce.