1998 E.u.M. Berger Grüner Veltliner Kabinett Lössterrassen ($16). This seductive wine, marked by vibrant acidity and weighty texture, fills the glass with white pepper and nutmeg aromas.

1998 Freie Weing”rtner Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten ($20). A great value from a top vineyard, this is a big, rich, earthy wine with complex aromas of wet stones and slate.

1998 Prager Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg ($25). Concentrated and focused, this compelling wine slowly releases notes of apricot, peach, candied lemon and minerals.

1998 Undhof Salomon Grüner Veltliner Wieden Reserve ($26). Restrained yet graceful, with a complex nose of peach, honey and white pepper, this wine reveals itself more and more with each sip.