1998 E.u.M. Berger Grüner Veltliner Kabinett Lössterrassen ($16). This seductive wine, marked by vibrant acidity and weighty texture, fills the glass with white pepper and nutmeg aromas.
1998 Freie Weingrtner Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten ($20). A great value from a top vineyard, this is a big, rich, earthy wine with complex aromas of wet stones and slate.
1998 Prager Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg ($25). Concentrated and focused, this compelling wine slowly releases notes of apricot, peach, candied lemon and minerals.
1998 Undhof Salomon Grüner Veltliner Wieden Reserve ($26). Restrained yet graceful, with a complex nose of peach, honey and white pepper, this wine reveals itself more and more with each sip.
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