While steak house wine lists can be full of expensive California Cabernets, there are good buys to be found.

Small Cab Producers Look for lesser-known but solid Cab producers like Mount Veeder Winery, which turned out a very well-made wine in the excellent 2002 vintage. Although this wine seemed to show up as often as the ubiquitous Silver Oak on steak house wine lists, it was a particularly good value at Gibsons in Chicago ($59).

California Zinfandel Some of the best deals on steak house lists are in the Zinfandel section. Green & Red Vineyard is one of my favorite Zin producers and its lush and lovely 2002 wine was a good buy at Smith & Wollensky in New York City ($55).

Châteauneuf-du-Pape There has been a string of great vintages in the southern Rhône. One terrific buy from the 2003 vintage was the earthy Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe La Crau at the Chicago Chop House ($78).