"Edgy" is not an official category of wine. Yet I haven't found a better way to describe all the wines I've tried lately that are a little challenging. Often cloudy, oddly hued and more savory than fruity, they are made by a growing number of producers who favor ancient wine techniquessome thousands of years oldover modern methods. You've heard of heirloom vegetables; these are heirloom wines.
Wine geeks have fervently embraced edgy wines. "Sometimes I ask myself if I like a wine because it's odd, or if it's odd because I like it," jokes Lou Amdur, the owner of Lou, a Hollywood wine bar known for its provocative list.
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Philosophically, I'm a fan of edgy wines. I like that they're "natural" (and then some): Producers generally use wild yeasts and grapes farmed with little or no chemicals. I'm pleased by how different they are from all the fruity, polished wines that dominate store shelves. And I enjoy their link to history: I imagine some taste like the wines Thomas Jefferson poured with his Monticello dinners, or even the ones Julius Caesar drank at his victory feasts in Rome.