I've traveled across the country in search of great barbecue, and wherever I've gone, I've caught the scent of backyard wood smoke. But when I followed the aroma to its source, I've often been surprised: Each region does things differently. Our grilling styles are as diverse as our accents. Miami broils steak with a Cuban flavor; in Hawaii, seared tuna with teriyaki sauce reveals a Japanese influence; Alabama may be the only place on earth with white barbecue sauce. It's time to celebrate these specialties. So drawing on my notes, I present my Barbecue Census 2000.

Steven Raichlen is the author of The Barbecue Bible and Barbecue Sauces, Rubs, and Marinades (both from Workman). He lives in Coconut Grove, Florida, and spreads the grilling gospel on his Web site, www.barbecuebible.com.

Published June 2000