ReturnHotels
Hualalai Resort This superdeluxe residential resort is the newest on the Kohala Coast. The beautifully landscaped grounds include about 200 villas and homes—with more in the works—along with lush golf courses, tennis courts, a spa and two restaurants: The Hualalai Grille by Alan Wong and a beachside café. The Hualalai Resort's 865-acre property also houses the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, a 243-room hotel with five swimming pools and a kids' program offering lessons in hula. DETAILS Hualalai Resort: 100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona; 800-983-3880. Four Seasons Resort Hualalai: doubles from $560; 100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kaupulehu-Kona; 808-325-8000.
Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows Mauna Lani's two championship 18-hole golf courses are some of the best on the Big Island. The 345-room resort also has five private bungalows, a spa and its own white-sand beach with a reef for snorkeling. DETAILS Doubles from $385; 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr., Kohala Coast; 808-885-6622.
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel This 310-room resort has a golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr. The spa, though not the area's most posh, has one of the best masseurs anywhere, Sevyn Galambos, and traditional Hawaiian therapies. DETAILS Doubles from $360; 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Kohala Coast; 808-882-7222.
Restaurants
Hilo Bay Café The vegan tofu kebabs and barbecue pork ribs here, from 27-year-old chef Joshua Ketner, are a hit with locals. DETAILS 315 Makaala St., Hilo; 808-935-4939.
Restaurant Kaikodo Owned by two Manhattan-based Asian-art dealers who plan to open a gallery and museum on site, Kaikodo has talented chef Mike Fennelly (an F&W Best New Chef 1993); his "Big Island cuisine" includes coconut-and-lentil-crusted ono, a mackerel-like fish. DETAILS 60 Keawe St., Hilo; 808-961-2558.
Norio's Sushi Bar & Restaurant The island's best sushi arrived with chef Norio Yamamoto a year ago. Don't miss his tuna tataki with Maui onion, ponzu sauce and aioli. DETAILS Fairmont Orchid, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Kohala Coast; 808-885-2000.
Merriman's Market Café Legendary chef Peter Merriman lives on Maui, but you might catch him experimenting with Big Island goat cheese and fresh local seafood in his café's kitchen. DETAILS Kings' Shops, Waikoloa Beach Dr., South Kohala; 808-886-1700.
Cocktails
The Shipwreck Bar at Kona Village Resort This 36-year-old bar is built around a beached wooden boat that once belonged to the resort's founder. Kona Village Resort is also known for its luau, held every Friday night. DETAILS 1 Kahuwai Bay, Kailua-Kona; 808-325-5555.
Shopping
Hilo Farmers Market At the Big Island's best market, open daily from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m., six lilikoi (passion fruit) cost a dollar. DETAILS Mamo St. at Kamehameha Ave., Hilo; 808-933-1000.
Events & Tours
Hawaii's Big Island Festival This third annual event, whose sponsors include F&W, offers five days of wine tastings, farm tours and more. F&W's Best New Chefs 2004 will join local chefs at cooking demos. DETAILS November 3 to 7; 866-424-FEST or BigIslandFestival.com.
NELHA (Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority) This marine-science lab sells products, such as premium lobster, to local chefs; it also has two visitors' centers. On November 4, as part of the third annual Big Island Festival, the lab will give special tours and a lunch. DETAILS 73-4460 Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. #101, Kailua-Kona; 808-329-7341.
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