GETTING THERE
The Backwaters region of Kerala can be reached by flying to Kochi (Cochin) International Airport.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY
The Malabar House, a chic 17-room hotel in a restored Dutch colonial house in Fort Cochin (an old section of Cochin). Its restaurant serves Mediterranean and Keralan dishes, such as prawns with pineapple "tagliatelle." DETAILS Doubles from $225; malabarhouse.com.
The Fort Cochin waterfront has open-air cooking shacks that serve the freshest fish and fantastic breakfasts, especially the crisp-fried wadas (like Indian falafel, made of potato instead of chickpeas).
WHERE TO TAKE COOKING CLASSES
Philipkutty’s Farm, on Vembanad Lake, offers cooking lessons and meals to day visitors and guests staying at its villas. DETAILS From $12 for lessons; doubles from $200, including meals; philipkuttysfarm.com.
Nimmy Paul, a Keralan cooking teacher who is fluent in English, holds classes in her Cochin home that usually include lunch or dinner. She also accepts guests for meals without lessons, and has one guest suite. DETAILS From $30 for lessons; doubles from $130, including lessons; nimmypaul.com.



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