HOTELS Hacienda Xcanatún A restored 18th-century estate with 18 suites, a spa and an elegant restaurant, Casa de Piedra, which serves dishes inspired by the Yucatán and the Caribbean (doubles from $230; km 12, Mérida Progreso Hwy., Mérida; 888-883-3633 or www.xcanatun.com).
RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón This chain of cafés, founded in 1907, serves delicious soft meringue cookies and sorbets like elote, made with nutty corn (Calle 62 #500, Mérida; 011-52-999-928-1497). Kinich-Kakmó Near the cathedral, with tortillas handmade on the premises (Calle 27 #299, Izamal; 011-52-988-954-0489). La Prosperidad Specializes in small snacks called botanas, such as chicken-tortilla soup, and features a live band that plays Mexican pop (Calle 53 #491, Mérida; 011-52-999-924-1402). Los Almendros Homey restaurant in the center of Mérida that has excellent salbutescrisp tortillas topped with turkey, tomatoes and onions (Calle 50 #57, facing Parque Mejorada, Mérida; 011-52-999-928-5459).
SHOPPING Casa de las Artesanias Sells a good collection of local arts and crafts, such as Panama hats, hipiles (traditional embroidered dresses), hammocks and pottery (Calle 63 #513; 011-52-999-928-6676).
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