With its antique railroad-signal lanterns and wine list evoking a train station’s departures board, San Francisco’s RN74 is a paean to travel.
That makes the peripatetic Rajat Parr feel at home. Born in Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), the 37-year-old Parr is the wine director of chef Michael Mina’s restaurant group and one of America’s most respected sommeliers. This year, with Mina’s backing, he opened the hotly anticipated RN74, an ultra-ambitious restaurant and wine bar. (The kitchen is run by Jason Berthold, previously the sous-chef at Napa’s famed French Laundry, which helped power the hype.) As Parr explains, RN74 brings together everything he loves about wine and food—just not in the way he’d always expected.