As every cook knows, vegetables in late August and September hardly need anything done to them, because they're so good. Even superchef Jean-Georges Vongerichten knows not to fiddle too much. He transforms his vegetable side dishes with a single bit of genius, as with a sprinkling of candied-orange-zest dust atop a tomato gratin or a shower of cracked black pepper over Chinese long beans.
Published
September 2002
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