The only thing late-summer vegetables really need, to make them even more remarkable, says a French chef, is one ingenious twist.

September 01, 2002

As every cook knows, vegetables in late August and September hardly need anything done to them, because they're so good. Even superchef Jean-Georges Vongerichten knows not to fiddle too much. He transforms his vegetable side dishes with a single bit of genius, as with a sprinkling of candied-orange-zest dust atop a tomato gratin or a shower of cracked black pepper over Chinese long beans.

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