It began, like many good ideas, around a restaurant table. Seven of Boston's finest chefs were sharing an end-of-summer meal in a Chinese restaurant. "Thanksgiving," said one, more or less out of the blue, "why don't we do it together this year?"
"Terrific," said another. "No parents leaning on you, no crazy in-laws. It's a great idea."
"At my house," said Lydia Shire, who owns a perfect over-the-river-and-through-the-woods farmhouse from the early 1800s in the town of Weston, Massachusetts.