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Los Angeles

Lucques
Smash-hit Sunday Suppers featuring California-French cuisine (8474 Melrose Ave.; 323-655-6277).

New York

Rosanjin
Exquisite—but pricey—kaiseki meals in a quiet nine-table room (141 Duane St.; 212-346-0664).

Sasabune
Tiny Japanese sushi spot with a "trust the chef" approach (401 E. 73rd St.; 212-249-8583).

Paris

Le Comptoir
Casual year-old restaurant serving bargain haute- bistro food (9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th Arr.; 011- 33-1-43-29-12-05).

Les Saveurs de Flora
French-inflected "surprise" meals (36 Ave. George V, 8th Arr.; 011-33-1-40-70-10-49).

Toronto

Susur
Sensational East-West dinners (601 King St. W.; 416-603-2205).

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