A Lesson in Moroccan Flavors

At San Francisco's Aziza, Mourad Lahlou brilliantly evokes Morocco. F&W simplifies his dishes.

Sautéed Chicken with Celery-Root Puree and Chestnuts

Beet, Pickled Cherry and Crispy Shallot Salad

Hanger Steak with Charmoula

Fregola with Minted Cauliflower

Golden Flounder with Caper-Almond Dressing

Mourad Lahlou of San Francisco's Aziza is not afraid to voice his strong opinions: He hates fusion food, he hates the term ethnic restaurant and he hates chefs who yell in the kitchen (though he admits that he used to be a terrible screamer). But the self-taught chef loves recipes that evoke his native Marrakech. "It's not possible to cut and paste a recipe from Morocco, make it in San Francisco, and expect it to be exactly the same," he says. Instead, he creates splendid dishes using a combination of American and Moroccan ingredients, as well as molecular-gastronomy tools like xanthan gum. Lahlou will launch a cookbook and a TV show next fall; F&W gets a preview by simplifying his tastiest recipes here—leaving out the gum but keeping all the great flavors and smart ideas.

Chef Way: Sous-Vide Chicken

At his restaurant, Lahlou uses sous-vide equipment to cook chicken breasts with buttermilk and herbs.

Easy Way: Sautéed Chicken

Home cooks can sauté the breasts in a skillet, set them on a smooth and creamy mound of pureed celery root, and garnish the dish with chopped herbs and chestnuts. "Chestnuts are a fairly common snack in Morocco," Lahlou says. "I like to serve them with chicken."