A Lesson in Cupboard Cooking
Chefs are always going on about respecting the quality of their produce, which is great advice, but not the most helpful for East Coasters like me in the middle of winter. Instead, I rely on a weatherproof version of a farmers’ market: a pantry stocked with high-quality jars and cans. Like a chef wandering the stalls, I’m inspired by what I find in the corners of my cupboard. I use piquillo peppers and tuna to create an Iberian version of tuna noodle casserole. And my Mixed Pantry Pan Roast is a result of one of those kitchen-sink cooking sessions: I roast sardines, sun-dried tomatoes and hearts of palm with potatoes, onions and lemons. The tangy, umami-packed dish is divine and a prime example of shelf-to-table cooking.