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The forthright flavors of Provençal food call for similarly assertive wines. Not surprisingly, the wines of Provence are especially well-suited: the whites are tart, sharp and savory, the reds full-bodied and intense, and the dry rosés are notably versatile. For this menu, start with a Provençal rosé, such as the 1996 Domaine Richeaume, or a French country white, such as the 1996 Domaine de Pouy Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne. Then switch to a red for Le Grand Aioli. The Provençal 1994 Domaine de Trévallon Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence would be ideal, but any powerful red, such as the 1994 Moulin Lagrezette Cahors, would be excellent too.