Henri Bonneau et Fils Given the tiny, 1,000-case production of Henri Bonneau's incredibly rich as well as expensive Réserve des Célestins, this estate is merely a footnote. Still, Bonneau is the archtraditionalist of the appellation, and the patron saint for anyone wanting to make Châteauneuf-du-Pape the way it tasted a century or two ago. These are wines of remarkable majesty and longevity.

Domaine Bosquet des Papes Multiple cuvées of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Papes, all based on Grenache, are produced by the Boiron family. They are delicious wines, with sumptuous personalities as well as loads of aromas and character.

Domaine du Caillou This one-time mediocre estate emerged from the doldrums in 1998, but its young proprietor was tragically killed in a car accident following the 2001 vintage. Since then, the property has been going through a transitional stage, but everything seems to be back on track with the 2004s. This modern Châteauneuf-du-Pape fashioned from old vines reveals brilliant potential.

Domaine de Cristia Another young proprietor, Baptiste Grangeon, has raised this once mediocre estate to the top of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's hierarchy over the past three to four years. These Grenache-driven wines cut a style midway between the archconservative traditionalists and the new-wave modernists.

Cuvée du Vatican Jean-Marc Diffonty, a member of another famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape family, has taken over from his father, who had let this estate slide in quality. Over the past half dozen or so years, the son has produced a succession of long-lived, classic Châteauneuf-du-Papes.

Domaine Font de Michelle Readers looking for modern Châteauneuf-du-Papes that are faithful to their Provençal origin, are gorgeous to drink young, yet have the potential to last and evolve for 10 to 15 years, should check out Font de Michelle's beautifully made wines from owners Jean and Michel Gonnet. Their luxury offering, the Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, has even more stuffing and intensity.

Château Fortia One of the great names of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this estate was owned by the Baron Leroy, the father of France's appellation laws. Fortia made fabulous wines in the '60s and '70s, then fell on tough times until the late '90s. The baron's son is now turning out the estate's finest work in more than 30 years. These wines are beautifully scented, with loads of blackberry, raspberry, melted licorice and spice box notes in a distinctive but classically Provençal style.

Château de la Gardine These are powerful, modern wines that appear to look to Bordeaux for their inspiration, but with proper aging—10 to 15 years—their Provençal typicity gradually emerges. The top wine of this Brunel family-owned estate, the Cuvée des Générations, is one of the longest-lived wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, easily lasting two to three decades.

Domaine du Père Caboche The dynamic mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Jean-Pierre Boisson, owns this estate, at which he produces one of the friendliest, fruitiest and easiest to drink wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Always impeccably made, pure and gorgeously fruity, it is ideal for drinking during its first five to eight years of life. As Boisson says, he does not have the discipline to wait a decade or more, so his intent is to make wines for immediate gratification.

Domaine Saint Préfert Since 2003, charming and elegant proprietress Isabel Ferrando has resurrected this once-forgotten estate to the upper levels of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's qualitative hierarchy. Two red cuvées are produced, the Collection Charles Giraud and the Réserve Auguste Favier. Both are gorgeously rich wines from ancient vines (40 to 100 years old) of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsaut. This is a name to follow closely.