Jan Birnbaum's recipes and the wines to drink with them

Luxurious reds with plenty of ripe fruit, like California Zinfandel, smooth the edges of sharp and briny sauces.

Roasted Poussins with Anchovy-Mustard Pan Sauce
and Creamy Potato-Corn Mash
1999 Louis M. Martini Gnarly Vine Monte Rosso Zinfandel

Crisp, refreshing whites with character and spice, such as Pinot Gris and Riesling, accentuate the bright freshness of chile-spiked seafood and vegetable dishes.

Spicy Squid Salad with Watercress and Lima Beans
2001 Etude Winery Pinot Gris

Lusty, Rhône-style reds, among them Syrah, Grenache and Syrah blends from California, enhance robust, spicy dishes with sweet, earthy undertones.

Andouille Pizza with Onion Confit and Fontina Cheese
1999 Joseph Phelps Le Mistral

Fruity reds, like Burgundy-style Pinot Noir, balance the intensity of bold and peppery dishes.

Seared Duck Breasts with Honey-Raisin Compote
and Almost Dirty Pork Rice
2000 Robert Sinskey Los Carneros Pinot Noir

Rich, late harvest-style wines with hints of fruit, honeysuckle and toasted nuts, as well as a delicate sweetness, echo the flavors in many autumn fruit-and-nut desserts.

Autumn Apple Buckle
2000 Robert Pecota Moscato d'Andrea

Fat, buttery whites, including California Chardonnay, cleanse palates challenged by complex and spicy stews. (Birnbaum admits most winemakers might prefer to serve beer with dishes like these.)

Rooster Gumbo with Tomatoes and Okra
1999 Harrison Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay

Full-bodied, tannic reds with lots of fruit—Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, for example—stand up to zesty, braised dishes without overpowering them.

Braised Short Ribs with Redeye Gravy
and Quick, Soft, Sexy Grits
1999 Staglin Family Rutherford Cabernet