Aeromexico has launched nonstop flights three times a week from New York and Los Angeles to Puebla. Details 800-237-6639 or aeromexico.com.
where to stay
La Purificadora A soon-to-open boutique hotel and restaurant. Details Doubles from $145; 011-52-55-5282-31-00 or lapurificadora.com.
where to eat
El As de Oros For excellent cemitas (enormous Pueblan sandwiches). Details Mercado Venustiano Carranza, at the intersection of 11 Norte and 4 Poniente.
Las Carmelitas For the town’s best chalupitas—crispy toasted tortillas stuffed with shredded pork. Details 10 Norte 1408; 011-52-222-235-9130.
Plazuela de los Sapos mole stand On weekends, a blue awning-topped stand at the antiques market serves a splendid version of mole poblano. details Plazuela de los Sapos.
where to visit
Uriarte Talavera factory Launched in 1824, this famed ceramics factory sells beautiful patterned pieces. The 87-year-old co-owner gives tours. Details 4 Poniente 911; 011-52-222-232-1598 or uriartetalavera.com.mx.
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