When the menu includes spicy Italian sausages from the grill, meltingly rich braised short ribs or a slow-roasted leg of lamb, the answer is a wine that has some oomph: potent tannins, intense flavor, inky color. In other words, California Petite Sirah. For a juicy, smoky classic of the form, try Pets ($14) from Napa-based Vinum Cellars.