Classic Wines from France
NV Pol Roger Brut Reserve Champagne ($45)
One of the last major Champagne houses that’s still family-owned, Pol Roger produces good wines at every level, from its famed Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill to this basic bottling. It’s exactly what brut (i.e., dry) Champagne should be: vividly crisp yet creamy, with complex fruit flavors and a tantalizing, toasty aroma.
2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet ($105)
Leflaive is one of the greatest domaines in the village of Puligny-Montrachet, itself one of the greatest sources for white Burgundy. Winemaker Eric Rémy brings out the appellation’s essence in this village bottling—it’s exotically creamy, with savory oak spice wrapped around a tight core of lime, apricot and minerals.
2008 Georges Duboeuf Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes ($16)
This bottling is classic Morgon (one of the 10 Beaujolais crus, which produce the region’s best wines). Low in tannins and full of sultry cherry fruit, it’s a great rebuttal to Beaujolais’s stereotype as a flimsy, anemic red.