2009 Salneval ($10)
The large Condes de Albarei winery produces this affordable, lemon peelscented white.
2009 La Cana ($17)
La Cana comes from vineyards planted only a mile or so from the Atlantic. More luscious than many Albariños at the same price, it has a lovely floral-citrus fragrance.
2008 Santiago Ruiz ($20)
Though in a lighter style, Ruiz's wine is subtle and layered, not simplistic at all.
2009 Do Ferreiro ($25)
Ferreiro is the Galician word for "ironworker," the profession of founder Gerardo Méndez's grandfather. This wine is powerful, citrusy and appropriately steely.
2008 Zarate El Palomar ($55)
Eulogio Botana makes a single 600- gallon barrel of this exotically spicy, single-vineyard white each year.