Writer Alan Richman's friends allowed him to select only one wine on their trip. Here are those he would have chosen, if only they'd let him.

La Beaugravière 1989 Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie ($80). An obscure but revered producer's impossible-to-find wine; costs less than what my friends would tip the sommelier.

Le Louis XV 1988 J. L. Chave Hermitage ($175). A fairly priced wine—just approaching its peak—from the best producer of the appellation.

Troisgros 1996 Verget Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée ($95). The 1996 white Burgundies from Verget are the steal of an outstanding vintage.

Paul Bocuse 1989 Pichon Lalande ($165). A bargain for a great Bordeaux that's ready to drink now— even if my friends think otherwise.

Guy Savoy 1985 Dujac Clos de la Roche ($840, in magnum). For one of the best red Burgundies from a renowned year, even I'll pay a lot.