NOTE In countries where English is not widely spoken, it's a good idea to have the concierge call for dinner reservations. Also ask the concierge to write a note to give your taxi driver, with the name of the restaurant, the address and the directions for getting there--in some cities (Tokyo, Bombay, Bangkok and Hong Kong), even locals may have trouble tracking places down. When calling from the U.S., dial 011 followed by the country and city codes.

Bangkok Country Code: 66 City Code: 2
Benjarong The Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd.; 236-0450; fax 236-6400; Web site www.dusitgroup.com.
Bussaracum 139 Psethiwan Building, Silom Road; 266-6312.
Celadon The Sukhothai, 13/3 S. Sathorn Rd.; 287-0222; fax 287-4980.
Chatuchak weekend market Opposite the Northeastern Bus Terminal on Phahonyothin Rd.
Harmonique 22 Charoen Krung 34; 237-8175.
Lemongrass 5/1 Soi 24, Sukhumvit Road; 258-8637.
The Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave.; 236-0400; fax 236-1939; E-mail bscorbkk@loxinfo.co.th.
Sala Rim Naam 597 Charoen Nakorn, Klongfan; 437-3080.
Seafood Market and Restaurant 89 Sukhumvit 24, Klongtoey; 661-1253.

Bombay Country Code: 91 City Code: 22
Bade Mian Tulloch Rd., behind Taj Hotel.
Chappan Bhog 39 Napean Sea Rd.; 367-1263.
Gomantak 301 Miranda Chawl N.C. Kelkar Rd.; 430-5631.
Kailash Parbat 1st Pasta Lane; 284-1972.
Only Fish Tulsi Vadi Lane, near Tardeo; 496-3114.
Sassoon Docks Near Colaba Market.
Sheetal Samudra Unity Compound, Juhu Tara Road; 646-0643.
Tanjore Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder; 202-3366.
Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding Mun Market Building, 1st floor; 414-2422.

Brussels Country Code: 32 City Code: 2
Le Bistro du Mail 81 Rue du Mail; 539-0697.
Comme Chez Soi 23 Place Rouppe; 512-2921.
L'Ecailler du Palais Royal 18 Rue Bodenbroek; 512-8751.
L'Idiot du Village 19 Rue Notre Seigneur; 502-5582.
La Maison du Cygne 2 Rue Charles Buls, Grand Place; 511-8244
Mary 73 Rue Royal; 217-4500.
Pierre Marcolini 39 Place du Grand Sablon; 514-1206.
Le Quincaillerie 45 Rue du Page; 538-2553.

Buenos Aires Country Code: 54 City Code: 1
La Biela 600 Avenida Quintana; 804-0449.
Cabaña Las Lilas 516 Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo; 313-1336.
Café de la Paix 595 Avenida Quintana; 804-6820.
Dora 1016 Avenida Leandro N. Alem; 311-2891.
Gran Café Tortoni 825 Avenida de Mayo; 342-4328.
Happening 310 Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo; 319-8712.
Katrine 138 Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo; 315-6221
L'Orangerie Alvear Palace Hotel, 1891 Avenida Alvear; 808-2100.

Hong Kong Country Code: 852
American Peking Restaurant 20 Lockhart Rd., Wanchai; 2527-7277.
Felix The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Kowloon; 2315-3188.
Indochine 1929 California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central; 2869-7399.
Man Wah Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central; 2522-0111.
The Peninsula Salisbury Road, Kowloon; 2315-3112 or 800-223-6800; fax 2722-4170; E-mail pen@peninsula.com.
Spring Moon The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Kowloon; 2315-3160.
Temple Street Night Market near Yau Ma Ti.
Vong Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central; 2825-4028.
Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium 301-309 Nathan Rd., Yau Ma Ti; 2384-0084.
Yung Kee 32-40 Wellington St., Central; 2522-1624.

Istanbul Country Code: 90 City Code: 212 (unless otherwise indicated)
Babane Sadri Alisik Sokak.
Develi 7 Gumusyuzuk Sokak, Samatya; 529-0833.
Egyptian Market Yeni Cami complex, Yeni Cami Caddesi.
Karabiber 3General Yazgan Sokak, Tunel, Beyoglu; 251-9085.
Körfez 78 Körfez Caddesi, KanlIca; 216-413-4314.
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Mahdumlari, Tahmis Sokak no 66, Eminönü.
Pandeli Egyptian Market, 1 MIsIr Çars¸IsI, Eminönü; 527-3909.
Panorama The Marmara Hotel, Taksim Square; 251-4696.
Safran Ceylan Inter-Continental Istanbul, 1 Asker Ocagi Caddesi, Taksim; 231-2121.
Sans 1Haci Adil Sokak; 281-0707.
Tugra Çiragan Palace Hotel Kempinski, 84 Çiragan Caddesi, Bes¸iktas¸; 258-3377.

London Country Code: 44 City Code: 171
Alastair Little (Soho) 49 Frith St.; 734-5183.
Aubergine 11 Park Walk; 352-3449.
Baker & Spice 46 Walton St.; 581-4463.
Butlers Wharf Chop House Butlers Wharf Building, 36E Shad Thames, Butlers Wharf; 403-3403.
Coast 26B Albemarle St.; 495-5999.
Criterion Brasserie 224 Piccadilly; 930-0488.
Mash 19-21 Great Portland St.; 637-5555.
Momo 25 Heddon St.; 434-4040.
MPW Cabot Place East, 2nd floor; 513-0513.
Neal's Yard Dairy 17 Shorts Garden; 379-7646.
The Oak Room Marco Pierre White The Meridien Hotel, 21 Piccadilly; 437-0202.
Pharmacy 150 Notting Hill Gate; 221-2442.
Quo Vadis 26-29 Dean St.; 437-9585.
The River Cafe Thames Wharf Studios, Rainville Road; 381-8824.
St. John 26 St. John St.; 251-0848.
The Sugar Club 21 Warwick St.; 437-7776.

Lyons Country Code: 33 City Code: 4
Bernachon Passion 42 Cours Franklin-Roosevelt; 78-52-23-65.
Bidon 5 44 Rue Mercière; 78-42-21-69.
Café des Fédérations 8 Rue du Major Martin; 78-28-26-00.
Charcuterie Reynon 13 Rue des Archers; 78-37-39-08
Chez Hugon 12 Rue Pizay; 78-28-10-94.
L'Est Gare des Brotteaux, 14 Place Jules Ferry; 37-24-25-26.
Les Halles102 Cours Lafayette.
Jean Plasse 766 Rue Edouard Herriot, Jassans Riottier; 74-09-51-51.
La Mère Brazier 12 Rue Royale; 78-28-15-49.
Mère Richard 102 Cours Lafayette; 78-62-30-78.
Le Nord 18 Rue Neuve; 72-10-69-69.
JacquierPascal Patissier et Chocolatier 52 Cours Richard Vitton; 78-53-20-52.
Quai Saint Antoine Near Place Bellecour.
Pierre Orsi 3 Place Kléber; 78-89-57-68.
Le Sud 11 Place Antonin Poncet; 72-77-80-00.
Tour Rose 22 Rue du Boeuf; 78-37-25-90.
Le Val d'Isère 64 Rue de Bonnel; 78-60-32-90.

Marrakech Country Code: 212 City Code: 4
El Baraka 1 Place Jamaa El F'na; 442341.
Dar Marjana 15 Derb Sidi Ali Taire, Bab Doukkala; 445773.
Le Palais Gharnatta 5 & 6 Derb El Arsa, Riad Zitoun Djedád; 440615.
Restaurant Le Tobsil 25 Zaoui El Hadar, par Riad Laarouss; 444052.
La Rose des Sables Imperial Borj Hotel, Avenue Echouhada, Quartier Hivernage; 447322.
Yacout 79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi; 641903.

Montreal Area Code: 514
Arthur Quentin 3960 St.-Denis; 843-7513.
Atwater Market 3025 St.-Ambroise.
Chez SchwartzCharcuterie Hebraique de Montreal 3895 St. Laurent; 842-4813.
La Chronique 99 Laurier Ouest; 271-3095.
L'Express 3927 St.-Denis; 845-5333.
Fairmount Bagel Bakery 74 Fairmount Ouest; 272-0667.
Le Fromentier 1375 Laurier Est; 527-3327.
Mediterraneo 3500 St.-Laurent; 844-0027.
Le Mikado 368 Laurier Ouest; 279-4809.
Le Passe-Partout 3857 Décarie; 487-7750.
Pierre-Yves Chaput 1787 St.-Hubert; 523-0824.
Première Moisson Atwater Market, 3025 St.-Ambroise; 932-0328.
Toqué 3842 St.-Denis; 499-2084.

New Orleans Area Code: 504
Anna Banana 819 Clearview Pkwy., Metairie; 887-2664.
Antoine's 713 St. Louis St.; 581-4422.
Bayona 430 Dauphine St.; 525-4455.
Brigtsen's 723 Dante St.; 861-7610.
Columns Hotel 3811 St. Charles Ave.; 899-9308.
Delmonico 1300 St. Charles Ave.; 525-4937.
Emeril's 800 Tchoupitoulas St.; 528-9393.
Gautreau's 1728 Soniat St.; 899-7397
Jacques-Imo's 8324 Oak St.; 861-0886.
Lemon Grass Café 216 N. Carrollton Ave.; 488-8335.
Nola 534 St. Louis St.; 522-6652.
Peristyle 1041 Dumaine St.; 593-9535.
Spice Inc. 1051 Annunciation St.; 558-9992.

New York Area Code: 212
Balthazar 80 Spring St.; 965-1414.
Le Bernardin 155 W. 51st St.; 489-1515.
Black Hound New York 170 Second Ave.; 979-9505.
Bond St. 6 Bond St.; 777-2500.
Bouley Bakery 120 W. Broadway; 964-2525.
Chez Es Saada 42 E. First St.; 777-5617.
Gramercy Tavern 42 E. 20th St.; 477-0777.
Jean Georges 1 Central Park West; 299-3900.
Oceana 55 E. 54th St.; 759-5941.
Raga 433 E. 6th St.; 388-0957.
Sullivan St. Bakery 73 Sullivan St.; 334-9435.
Tabla 11 Madison Ave.; 889-0667.
Temple Bar332 Lafayette St.; 925-4242.
Union Square Cafe 21 E. 16th St.; 243-4020.

Oaxaca Country Code: 52 City Code: 951
Benito Juárez and 20 de Noviembre Markets south of the zócalo.
Camino Real Cinco de Mayo 300; 60611.
La Casa de la Abuela Hidalgo 616 (upstairs); 63544.
Chocolate Mayordomo 20 de Noviembre at Mina; 61619.
El Catedral Restaurant García Vigil 105; 63285.
El Marqués Del Valle Portal Clavería; 63677.
El Mesón Avenida Hidalgo 805; 62729.
La Soledad Mina 212; 63807.
Susana Trilling 87726.
Tlaminalli Teotitlán del Valle (Ask at your hotel for directions.)

Paris Country Code: 33 City Code: 1
Alain Ducasse 59 Ave. Raymond Poincaré; 47-27-12-27.
Alléosse 13 Rue Poncelet; 46-22-50-45.
Arpège 84 Rue de Varenne; 45-51-47-33.
Les Caves Taillevent 199 Rue du Faubourg- St.-Honoré; 45-61-14-09.
Dehillerin 18 Rue Coquillière; 42-36-53-13.
Le Dôme 108 Blvd. du Montparnasse; 43-35-25-81.
Jamin 32 Rue de Longchamp; 45-53-00-07.
Ladurée 16 Rue Royale; 42-60-21-79.
La Maison du Chocolat 225 Rue du Faubourg-St.-Honoré; 42-27-39-44.
MORA 13 Rue Montmartre; 45-08-19-24.
Philippe Gosselin 123-125 Rue St.-Honoré; 45-08-03-59.
Pierre Gagnaire 6 Rue de Balzac; 44-35-18-25.
Poujauran 20 Rue Jean-Nicot; 47-05-80-88.
Le Pré Catalan Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne; 44-14-41-14.
La Régalade 49 Ave. Jean-Moulin; 45-45-68-58.
La Samaritaine 19 Rue de la Monnaie; 40-41-20-20.
Taillevent 15 Rue Lammenais; 45-63-39-94.
Willi's Wine Bar 13 Rue des Petits-Champs; 42-61-05-09.

Rome Country Code: 39 City Code: 6
Agata e Romeo 45 Via Carlo Alberto, Santa Maria Maggiore; 44-65-842.
Antica Pasticceria Bella Napoli 246Corso Vittorio Emanuele II; 68-77-048.
Campo dei Fiori Between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Piazza Farnese.
Enoteca Trimani 20Via Goito; 44-69-661.
Gelateria Giolitti Via Uffici del Vicario; 69-91-243.
Pizzeria Baffetto 114Via del Governo Vecchio, between Piazza Navona and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II; 68-61-617.
Ristorante il Pellicano 8Via Giglio d'Oro; 68-33-490.
Settimio al Pellegrino 117 Via del Pellegrino; 68-80-1978.
Trattoria da Lucia 2Vicolo del Mattonato; 58-03-601.
Trimani il Wine Bar 37B Via Cernaia; 44-69-630.

San Francisco Area Code: 415 (unless otherwise listed)
Acme Bread Company 1601 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley; 510-524-1021.
Chez Panisse 1517 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley; 510-548-5525.
Cypress Club 500 Jackson St.; 296-8555.
Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market Saturdays and Sundays, Embarcadero at Green Street; 981-3004.
Jardinière 300 Grove St.; 861-5555.
Loongbar 900 North Point St.; 771-6800.
Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe 566 Columbus Ave.; 362-0536.
Masa's 648 Bush St.; 989-7154.
Oliveto Cafe and Restaurant 5655 College Ave., Oakland; 510-547-5356.
PlumpJack Cafe 3127 Fillmore St.; 563-4755. Restaurant LuLu 816 Folsom St.; 495-5775.
The Slanted Door 584 Valencia St.; 861-8032.

San Sebastián Country Code: 34 City Code: 943
Akelarre Paseo del Padre Orcolaga, 56 Barrio de Iqueldo; 21-20-52.
Arzak Kalia Alto de Miracruz; 27-84-65.
La Brecha Market In Parte Vieja, withentrances along Alameda de Boulevard; 42-02-89.
Martín Berasategui 4 Loidi Kalea, Lasarte; 36-64-71.

Singapore Country Code: 65
Club Chinois Orchard Parade Hotel; 1 Tanglin Rd., #02-18; 834-0660.
Hawkers centers: Chinatown Food Complex Smith Street between New Bridge Road and Trengganu Street; Maxwell Road Food Center Maxwell Road at Tanjong Pagar Road; Newton Circus Market Newton Road at Scott Road.
House of Mao China Square Food Center, 51 Telok-Ayer St., #03-02; 533-0660.
Jiang Nan Chun Four Seasons Hotel, 190 Orchard Blvd.; 734-1110.
Raffles Grill and Raffles Hotel 1 Beach Rd.; 337-1886.
Summer Pavilion The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore, 7 Raffles Ave; 337-8888.

Sydney Country Code: 61 City Code: 2
Banc and Wine Banc 53 Martin Pl.; 9233-5300.
Darely Street Thai 28-30 Bayswater Rd., Kings Cross; 9358-6530.
Fuel Providore 476-488 Crown St., Surry Hills; 9383-9399.
MG Garage Restaurant 490 Crown St., Surry Hills; 9383-9383.
Rockpool 107 George St., The Rocks; 9252-1888.
Sailors Thai 106 George St., The Rocks; 9251-2466.
Sydney Fish Market Bank Street, Pyrmont; 9552-2180.
Tetsuya's Restaurant 729 Darling St., Rozelle; 9555-1017.
Unkai 176 Cumberland St., The Rocks; 9250-6123.
Wockpool Panasonic Imax Theatre, Darling Harbor; 9211-9888.
Yoshii Sushi Bar and Restaurant 54 Murray St., Piedmont; 9211-6866.

Tokyo Country Code: 81 City Code: 03
Chatelain Taillevent-Robuchon Ebisu Gardenplace, 1-131 Mita, Meguro-ku; 5424-1338.
Chez Matsuo 1-23-15 Shoto, Shibuya-ku; 3485-0566.
Kihachi 4-18-10 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku; 3403-7477.
Mandaraya 4-5-21 Akasaka, Minato-ku; 3505-5343.
Ryu-Sushi Ichigokan, Chuo-Oroshiuri Shijyo Tsukiji Shijyo, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; 3541-9517.
Tsujitome 1-5-8 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku; 3403-3984.
Tsukiji Fish Market 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; 3542-1111.
Tsukiji Masamoto Knife Shop 4-9-9 Tsukiji (Harumi-dori side), Chuo-ku; 3541-8000.
Tsukiji Sushi Sei 4-13-19 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; 3541-7720.
Waketokuyama 4-2-13 Nishiazabu, Minato-ku; 3400-2968.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks to the following sources for their help in compiling these listings: Jeffrey Alford, Elizabeth Andoh,Celia Barbour, Nat Boonthanakit, Daniel Boulud, Marisa Bowe, Malia Boyd, Floyd Cardoz, Robert Carmack,Cricket Coleman, Geralyn Delaney, Sam DeMarco, Greg Drescher,Naomi Duguid, Susan and Scott Ely,Georgette Farkas, Bob and Jessica Friedberg, Julian Griffiths, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Maya Kaimal, Gray Kunz, Christine Lamarche, Normand Laprise, Suser Lee, Craig Markham, Liliane Opsomer, Ambassador Nitya Pibulsonggram, Maricel Presilla, Stephan Pyles, Steven Raichlen, Michele Repine,Daniel Ribas, Philippe Rispoli, Chris Schlesinger, Peter Schoch, Bruce Schoenfeld, John Scott, Ian and Rosalind Shane, Mimi Sheraton, Dominique Simón, Kerry Simon, Chieko Takata, Laurie Tomasino, Yan Van de Houtte, Patricia Wells, John Willoughby, Paula Wolfert, Bill Yosses, Abdul Zkhiri

After compiling this list of 20 cities, freelance writer JONATHAN HAYES plans to stay home in New York City for a while.