AS FEATURED IN...
From Travel + Leisure , DEC 2005
For the midnight mass, I head to the city's main functioning church, the Kazan Cathedral, an elegant early-19th-century rip-off of St. Peter's in Rome. Approaching the church past the snow-covered empty streets, I am mesmerized by the yellow-lit cupola and the sound of the bells slowly rising in pitch and purpose. Inside, the proceedings are suffused with a lavender glow, flickering amber candles, and overpowering incense. I see women in woolen scarves, their thick purple glasses hiding the kernels of...MORE>>
Last updated December 2005





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