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Dieu du Ciel

The brewing tradition is alive and well in Quebec, nowhere more so than at this excellent, nothing-but-the-basics microbrewery just a few blocks east of Laurier's tony boutiques—far enough away, that is, to maintain its authenticity. Inside, the wooden chairs and tables are appropriately worn and stained, and the stainless-steel fermenting casks gleam brightly. There are more than a dozen beers on tap, including Irish cream ales, smoked porters, and cask-conditioned IPAs. The easy-to-drink Belgian Trappist–style Rigor Mortis ale is particularly delicious; at 10.5 percent alcohol, its name serves as a fair warning.